huueman

Thursday, 28 July 2011

SAMUEL MEMBERY ON METRO ONLINE AND THE DAILY TELEGRAPH ONLINE

http://pictures.metro.co.uk/the-rca-graduate-fashion-show-2011/844881/The-RCA-Graduate-Fashion-Show

http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/galleries/TMG8553433/13/In-pictures-Royal-College-of-Art-Graduate-Fashion-Show-2011.html

PHOTOGRAPHY FERGUS MCDONALD

SAMUEL MEMBERY ON FASHION 156 SHOW REPORTS 2011

The menswear collections were exceptionally strong, with many taking traditional fabrics and applying modern cutting techniques to question and transform the status of masculine style. Womenswear followed closely behind, with some experimenting in industrial and discarded materials, and many manipulating the conventional feminine silhouette.

Menswear designer Hannah Taylor stood out with her balaclava-clad models storming the catwalk, reminiscent of Kokon to Zai’s AW11 show. Heavy oversized cable knits were mixed with dense fur-imitation knitwear and in-your-face bold colour clashes to produce a half-Rastafarian, half-Navajo Indian vibe. Oversized items dominated the collection, with a standout piece being a sleeveless cable-knit jumpsuit.

Elsewhere Calum Harvey and Samuel Membery notably took on classic British tailoring with a modern approach. Harvey had both male and female models don fedora hats to highlight the transitional elements of his 1920s cross-dressing-inspired collection, whilst oversized, flamboyant cravat-like shirt detailing tied together the sexually ambiguous look. Membery emulated a more masculine style in his collection, using multiple square-cut layers to break up the linear structure of the body and soften the classic tailored style. Two-tone trousers helped to develop the juxtaposing linearity of the outfit whilst in keeping with the monotonous palette.